Glimpse of Japan

One would think, before coming to Japan, that there would be many a place accessible to your average visitor where you can dine in true Japanese scenery and enjoy a bit of Japanese entertainment. In reality, such experiences are a lot harder to come by than one would think. Of course there are millions of authentic, quaint Japanese restaurants across the country and these can be a great window in to the culture. However, there are very few opportunities to actually witness an evening of Japanese culture as such. Japan being a true lover of specialists, there is of course the opportunity to experience specialty Japanese cuisine, view a kabuki play or even go to a drag queen show...

Last weekend however, I was pleasantly surprised to come across a place that provides rather a complete Japanese experience all at the one place and in the one evening.

Like most great places and experiences in Japan, I discovered the 'Meijikinenkan’ through word of mouth. It got to the point where several people had mentioned the place to me and highly recommended a visit, claiming it was a great beer garden in a beautiful setting. Once I worked out all the necessary details, I headed along, with beer drinking friend in tow, only to discover that this place was much more than a beer garden...it offered a true Japanese experience. The Meijikinenkan is on the outskirts of the Meiji shrine, and I believe managed by the same people. In itself it has historical value with the main hall housing the Meiji Emperor for constitutional discussions. Nowadays it is essentially a large convention center of sorts, housing several restaurants including the beer terrace I had heard so much about.

Once I had discovered how to get there (the English website is rather limited), there was then the ordeal of actually getting a table. You are able to book tables inside the facility, but if you want to be on the `beer terrace` i.e. in the garden (which you do), you have to hope you get there early enough. On general enquiry over the phone as to what time this need be. I was informed that I should arrive between 5-5:30pm. Fine, except the restaurant didn’t open until after 6:30pm. Initial glimpses of the venue had us intrigued, and with the number of other people waiting around we figured the hour and a half down-time had to be an investment...

Come 6:30 we gathered around a small Japanese man reading out names of people allowed in the venue like excited yet competitive school children "pick me, pick me! “As Japanese name after Japanese name was read out (on the night I went there was only one other table of fellow 'gaijin'), my heart sank a little more, only to hear "Keito-sama" just as the tables looked to be almost full. We were escorted to our table across a beautiful and huge Japanese garden and eventually sat on large cane chairs beneath a very Japanese looking tree. The place was beautifully lit with fire lamps and not only was the garden a great scene, but the building itself -a true merge of traditional and modern with one half of it looking almost temple-like, and the other, a modern mansion.

The culture came not only in the scenery, the glasses of Asahi beer and the cuisine (although western food is also available), but also through the several performances of women dressed geisha-style, introduced by a Japanese ninja. Add to the experience the ability to witness several Japanese weddings going on through the windows of the venue (including the guests doing some sort of funky chicken dance!) and you are treated to yet even more culture. I'll be going back for sure, whenever I'm in the mood for a bit of tradition and a nice cold beer in the summer heat...